Wednesday, 29 October 2014
Saturday to Wednesday
We skyped home on Saturday morning and discovered there had been a bit of drama at home. Jess, Kath and Ryan have all been stars and coped really well. Since then if we have had wifi we have used it to skype or call home so this is an update of the last 5 days.
We managed to complete the Rob Roy glacier walk on Saturday - the sun was out so we could see the mountain tops and there hadn't been too much overnight rain so the 30km gravel road with 10 fords was open. It was well worth the journey and our little van coped really well with the fords. I have to admit I left it to Martin to do the 4 by 4 driving! While walking up we heard a loud rumble and when we were up by the glacier we saw a small avalanche. Definitely our best walk up to now. We overnighted at a DOC camp and found a spot sheltered on 2 sides by trees and bushes as the wind was gale force.
The next morning we followed the Haast highway to the West Coast stopping at waterfalls and blue pools. We got to Fox Glacier by mid afternoon and walked from the town to see the glacier. We were disappointed at how far away from the glacier the path ended due to the danger of ice and rockfalls (though I do understand the need for safety).
Confession: the next morning we were so full of thoughts of home having just spoken to both of the girls we drove off our campsite pitch without unplugging the power cable! Luckily no damage was done and we now have a note on the steering wheel.
We walked around Lake Matheson which is renowned for its reflection of Mount Cook. Unfortunately we just saw a great reflection of the clouds surrounding Mount Cook but it was still a pleasant walk. We noticed how much busier this area is having completed several hikes without encountering anyone else we were now waiting at viewpoints to get a look see. Next stop was the Franz Josef glacier and this time we got much closer. You can only get onto the glacier by paying about £200 to ride up in a helicopter. There were plenty of takers as the helicopters were buzzing in and out the whole time we were walking through the valley.
We drove on to Hokitika to a DOC site on a lakeshore with a fab panoramic view of the southern alps and we watched the sky and the mountains redden as the sun set.
Yesterday we drove all day just stopping for quick walks to see pancake stack rocks at Punakaiki and a seal colony at Cape Foulwind (aptly named by Captain Cook). We stopped at a very large campsite with a fitness trail, go kart track (currently being mown by sheep), adventure playground and farmyard. We were the only ones there! Apparently it does get busy at weekends and in the summer.
Today was just a short hop into the Abel Tasman national park. In the last major town before the park we made use of the free wifi offered by the library - sat outside on a bench. Whilst Martin downloaded some podcasts (including my weekly fix of the Archers) I made a cuppa in the van, buttered some scones and took them to the bench. We hiked for about 3.5 hours this afternoon along the coast track, stopping on a lovely quiet beach to soak up the sun and rest our weary feet before turning back to camp.
Friday, 24 October 2014
Tuesday to Friday
We had 3 alarms set so we didn't miss our 8am boat trip to Doubtful Sound on Tuesday. The boat took us across Lake Manapouri, then we had a bus ride over Wilmotts Pass to another boat which we cruised on through Doubtful Sound. It was a great day out - the scenery was fabulous, the weather was good, we saw 2 types of penguins (including the Blue which is the smallest) and parrots. But the highlight was seeing the resident pod of dolphins who joined us for about 5 minutes, swimming in the bow waves and jumping in the boat's wake. Sightings are not guaranteed as the Sound is so large so we were lucky. In the photo the dolphin looks brown in colour but this is the tannin layer in the water caused by the sea water mixing with the fresh water. When the dolphins broke the surface they were the expected grey colour.
Fact learnt during the boat trip: New Zealand only has 1 indigenous mammal, the bat. All the others have been introduced and the possum (brought in for the fur trade) is classed as a pest. We were advised to run over any possum we saw to make it a 'squashum'.
We had thought we could only do 1 of the Sounds and chose Doubtful but, as we got back from the trip at 3.30 we decided to drive up to Milford Sound. We had been warned about the traffic on the road to the Sound but as we were very late all the traffic was coming out. We saw the majestic Mitre Peak, took some photos then went back down the road to a Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite. These are cheap but basic - they usually just have 'long drop' toilets but are in beautiful locations. Again it was lovely camping with just a few vans/tents in the darkness with the brilliant stars overhead.
On Wednesday we drove further down the road back to Te Anua stopping to do 2 short nature walks.
We then drove to Arrowtown for the night (proper campsite so we could have a shower).
Our plans change every day - it's a matter of balancing wanting to see as much as we can with exploring and hiking in each place. We decided to stop and explore this area rather than keep driving. So the next day we explored Arrowtown (old gold mining town) and Queenstown, then hiked for about 3.5 hours seeing no-one (lots of sheep though). We camped at a DOC site about 12km west of Queenstown on a lakeshore.
Queenstown is a vibrant place; full of youngsters looking for adventure. You can paraglide, skydive, power boat down a gorge, swing over a canyon and bungee jump.
Today we drove back to Wanaka and have stopped here on our way to the West coast as the weather looks fine for the Rob Roy glacier walk tomorrow.
Fact learnt during the boat trip: New Zealand only has 1 indigenous mammal, the bat. All the others have been introduced and the possum (brought in for the fur trade) is classed as a pest. We were advised to run over any possum we saw to make it a 'squashum'.
We had thought we could only do 1 of the Sounds and chose Doubtful but, as we got back from the trip at 3.30 we decided to drive up to Milford Sound. We had been warned about the traffic on the road to the Sound but as we were very late all the traffic was coming out. We saw the majestic Mitre Peak, took some photos then went back down the road to a Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite. These are cheap but basic - they usually just have 'long drop' toilets but are in beautiful locations. Again it was lovely camping with just a few vans/tents in the darkness with the brilliant stars overhead.
On Wednesday we drove further down the road back to Te Anua stopping to do 2 short nature walks.
We then drove to Arrowtown for the night (proper campsite so we could have a shower).
Our plans change every day - it's a matter of balancing wanting to see as much as we can with exploring and hiking in each place. We decided to stop and explore this area rather than keep driving. So the next day we explored Arrowtown (old gold mining town) and Queenstown, then hiked for about 3.5 hours seeing no-one (lots of sheep though). We camped at a DOC site about 12km west of Queenstown on a lakeshore.
Queenstown is a vibrant place; full of youngsters looking for adventure. You can paraglide, skydive, power boat down a gorge, swing over a canyon and bungee jump.
Today we drove back to Wanaka and have stopped here on our way to the West coast as the weather looks fine for the Rob Roy glacier walk tomorrow.
Sunday, 19 October 2014
Sunday and Monday
We couldn't do the Rob Roy glacier walk on Sunday because of the weather but we did walk up Rocky Mountain via Diamond Lake. At the top there was a magnificent 360º view of Lake Wanaka and the surrounding mountains and valleys - very reminiscent of our Lake District at home. It was a Sunday but so quiet and we had the summit to ourselves for the half hour we were up there. We plan to drive back through Wanaka on our way to the West Coast region so have our fingers crossed for good weather so we can stop and do the hike.
As we had time we decided to drive on towards Fjordland and last night we 'freedom camped'. All of the townships ban freedom camping within the towns but it is permitted at picnic sites along the roads if the camper is 'self contained' (ie waste water is held in a tank). We stopped by a lake and there were 2 other vans with us overnight- far enough away but safety in numbers. It was quiet and very dark. Without going into too much detail it was a challenge for us as we only have a small portaloo so there was a bit of giggling and headtorch lights bobbing around in the darkness at bedtime!
The sandflys are a real nuisance in this area - the females bite. So we get in the van, shut the door quickly and spend the first few minutes swotting.
Today we drove to Manapouri via Te Anau. We have booked a day cruise in Doubtful Sound leaving very early tomorrow morning. We are on a tiny campsite tonight but it has facilities - including a proper loo.
As we had time we decided to drive on towards Fjordland and last night we 'freedom camped'. All of the townships ban freedom camping within the towns but it is permitted at picnic sites along the roads if the camper is 'self contained' (ie waste water is held in a tank). We stopped by a lake and there were 2 other vans with us overnight- far enough away but safety in numbers. It was quiet and very dark. Without going into too much detail it was a challenge for us as we only have a small portaloo so there was a bit of giggling and headtorch lights bobbing around in the darkness at bedtime!
The sandflys are a real nuisance in this area - the females bite. So we get in the van, shut the door quickly and spend the first few minutes swotting.
Today we drove to Manapouri via Te Anau. We have booked a day cruise in Doubtful Sound leaving very early tomorrow morning. We are on a tiny campsite tonight but it has facilities - including a proper loo.
Saturday, 18 October 2014
New Zealand
We had 2 good flights to get to Christchurch. We only got about 2 hours sleep on the overnight flight and have had to adjust to another 5 hour time change so we are a bit tired. We are really pleased we went to Hong Kong- it was great to catch up with Matt. The place was phenomenally busy - the most densely populated area according to statistics and we can believe it. And they are still building more tower blocks for housing. The streets were clean and the metro very efficient and, thankfully, air conditioned. There are signs warning against spitting in the street which is the norm in mainland China. There is a lot of animosity between native Hong Kong people and those coming in from the mainland. There were also signs in some parks banning the hanging of linen - people living in small apartments in the huge tower blocks dry their linen by hanging it over bushes in parks where they can.
So now here we are in New Zealand on the South Island with all this space and only 900,000 people! What a contrast. Also we left England in the autumn and have arrived in Spring- azaleas and tulips in full flower in the Christchurch botanical gardens. We found it quite sad in this city - since the earthquake they have lost 13% of the population. Many buildings are empty, many others are construction sites and the sight of the devastated cathedral brings home the scale of the disaster. It just felt very quiet and sad and other visitors and residents we spoke to agreed.
After a night in the YMCA we picked up our campervan which is our home for the next 3 weeks. It's very small- I think this will be a greater test of our marriage than the Clipper race! We spent last night at Lake Tekapo and then did a short walk by Lake Pukaki with a super view of Mount Cook before the clouds came in. We then drove for a couple of hours- lots to look at out of the window: fabulous scenery, sheep, lakes and rivers, woolly sheep, vineyards, birds of prey, shorn sheep.
We are now at Lake Wanaka and hope to hike to the Rob Roy glacier tomorrow although this is weather dependent. Our campsite here is about £23 a night but this includes really good facilities including 2 very large jacuzzis which may well come in handy after a long hike.
So now here we are in New Zealand on the South Island with all this space and only 900,000 people! What a contrast. Also we left England in the autumn and have arrived in Spring- azaleas and tulips in full flower in the Christchurch botanical gardens. We found it quite sad in this city - since the earthquake they have lost 13% of the population. Many buildings are empty, many others are construction sites and the sight of the devastated cathedral brings home the scale of the disaster. It just felt very quiet and sad and other visitors and residents we spoke to agreed.
After a night in the YMCA we picked up our campervan which is our home for the next 3 weeks. It's very small- I think this will be a greater test of our marriage than the Clipper race! We spent last night at Lake Tekapo and then did a short walk by Lake Pukaki with a super view of Mount Cook before the clouds came in. We then drove for a couple of hours- lots to look at out of the window: fabulous scenery, sheep, lakes and rivers, woolly sheep, vineyards, birds of prey, shorn sheep.
We are now at Lake Wanaka and hope to hike to the Rob Roy glacier tomorrow although this is weather dependent. Our campsite here is about £23 a night but this includes really good facilities including 2 very large jacuzzis which may well come in handy after a long hike.
Tuesday, 14 October 2014
Tuesday
We had a really lovely day out on the boat. I can understand the skipper normally motoring as usually the boat is chartered by about 20 young professionals for a booze cruise. When he saw it was just us 3 and understood that Martin is an experienced sailor he was more than happy to sail.
The yacht club is based in the city so we sailed out past the Hong Kong skyline which today was fuzzy due to smog. Luckily as we sailed out towards the smaller islands the smog cleared. Martin was in his element and I noticed the skipper nodded off at one point, happy to leave us to it. We stopped at Causeway Bay for a swim and lunch then sailed back in, dodging the fishing boats, ferries etc. And the sea was calm!
Matts dad, Mark has arrived so we 4 are off to Port Stanley for lunch tomorrow (Leah has to work again but we did see her for dinner this evening). Then Martin and I catch our flight to New Zealand at 7pm. There is an 'in town' check in service here at Central metro station so we can check in, drop our bags and go off for the day. Our bags are transported to the airport and we next see them in Auckland- hopefully!
The yacht club is based in the city so we sailed out past the Hong Kong skyline which today was fuzzy due to smog. Luckily as we sailed out towards the smaller islands the smog cleared. Martin was in his element and I noticed the skipper nodded off at one point, happy to leave us to it. We stopped at Causeway Bay for a swim and lunch then sailed back in, dodging the fishing boats, ferries etc. And the sea was calm!
Matts dad, Mark has arrived so we 4 are off to Port Stanley for lunch tomorrow (Leah has to work again but we did see her for dinner this evening). Then Martin and I catch our flight to New Zealand at 7pm. There is an 'in town' check in service here at Central metro station so we can check in, drop our bags and go off for the day. Our bags are transported to the airport and we next see them in Auckland- hopefully!
Monday, 13 October 2014
Monday
This morning we went on a 25 min cable car ride on Lantau Island to see the Big Buddha (pics to follow but I think they are coming out really big??). The cable car was very smooth and gave us a great view of the airport and the green hills on Lantau. The buddha sits on a lotus leaf, is made of bronze and is about 60' high.
We then had to catch a bus to meet my nephew Matt at a particular beach on Lantau. We got the right bus but got off at the wrong stop. It didn't matter in the end as we were early and had a lovely 20 minute walk back along the beach paddling in the warm sea. There was a sign prohibiting dogs but there are free roaming cattle who congregate every evening on the beach! After a couple of beers we went to Discovery Bay, where Matt lives, for a curry. The area was pleasant and quiet - very different to central Hong Kong and Kowloon. There are a lot of ex pats living here, no cars (only golf buggies) and, according to Matt, is a bit 'Stepford Wives'.
Tomorrow Matt has chartered a yacht for the day (at a very good price through Cathay) and we are going to go out to an island for lunch. Martin is determined to get the sails up and get the boat to heel over but we have heard that the skipper usually just motors. I'm just hoping for calm seas!
We then had to catch a bus to meet my nephew Matt at a particular beach on Lantau. We got the right bus but got off at the wrong stop. It didn't matter in the end as we were early and had a lovely 20 minute walk back along the beach paddling in the warm sea. There was a sign prohibiting dogs but there are free roaming cattle who congregate every evening on the beach! After a couple of beers we went to Discovery Bay, where Matt lives, for a curry. The area was pleasant and quiet - very different to central Hong Kong and Kowloon. There are a lot of ex pats living here, no cars (only golf buggies) and, according to Matt, is a bit 'Stepford Wives'.
Tomorrow Matt has chartered a yacht for the day (at a very good price through Cathay) and we are going to go out to an island for lunch. Martin is determined to get the sails up and get the boat to heel over but we have heard that the skipper usually just motors. I'm just hoping for calm seas!
Sunday, 12 October 2014
Sunday
This morning we visited the monastery of 10,000 buddhas. It does what it says on the tin- there are 10,000 buddha statues ranging in size from 3", through life size to ginormous. Each one is unique in appearance too; old, young, holding different things, different facial expressions. I wasn't too sure about the place at first- just a gimmick? But it grew on me especially after seeing chinese people (not tourists) arriving with offerings, lighting incense sticks and praying to particular buddhas. This together with 2 halls of plaques dedicated to locals who have died made the whole experience feel more genuine.
We then spent some time in Kowloon Park which was packed with people. It was truly eclectic: there were kung fu and tai chi demos, young cadets doing square bashing, picnickers singing along to karaoke machines and others doing bollywood style dances.
We have just got back from seeing the light and music show on the Hong Kong- I'm afraid we were disappointed. It was quite tame and we were just waiting for it to get more spectacular when it finished!
We then spent some time in Kowloon Park which was packed with people. It was truly eclectic: there were kung fu and tai chi demos, young cadets doing square bashing, picnickers singing along to karaoke machines and others doing bollywood style dances.
We have just got back from seeing the light and music show on the Hong Kong- I'm afraid we were disappointed. It was quite tame and we were just waiting for it to get more spectacular when it finished!
Saturday, 11 October 2014
Hong Kong
Our first stop on this trip is for 5 nights in Hong Kong. We are here to sightsee but also to spend time with my nephew, Matt and his girlfriend, Leah. Matt had just qualified as a fighter pilot when the RAF made redundancies a few years ago. Matt and about 80 of his cohort were swiftly recruited by Cathay Pacific and has made his home here.
We had a good flight over with Cathay and when we landed we discovered that one of Matts friends (Charlie) had been one of the pilots.
We are staying at the YHA hostel in Kowloon. A large apartment block has been refurbished and it is all very modern and clean. We have our own big double room and private bathroom.
Yesterday afternoon we walked through all the markets; flower, goldfish, birds, ladies and temple st night markets. I took lots of photos but not of the pet shops which had dogs and cats in glass enclosures- horrible. The main thoroughfare which runs through Kowloon was blocked by barricades at each intersection and there were a few protesters camping out. I took a photo of Martin behind a barrier showing his solidarity but the internet is very slow and I'm having trouble uploading my pictures.
Today we had a late start as we had trouble sleeping last night. That meant we hit some queues at the tram to go up the Peak. Up at the top the views were worth the wait. We then walked around central Hong Kong and had a late lunch at a street carnival. We got chatting to an American who also turned out to be a Cathay pilot!
We then came across the main area for the protesters who have barricaded a 6 lane major highway. The atmosphere was extremely calm and the police were maintaining a very low profile. Maybe because its the weekend there were many people sitting down/camping. We walked down the road which was stewn with placards, posters, tents, barricades decorated with umbrellas, makeshift shower tents, there was even a central supplies tent in case anyone wanted to stay the night and hadn't come prepared. There was a large group making origami umbrellas which are being hung on string from bridges.
We caught the iconic Star ferry back to the Kowloon waterfront and watched the sun set and the buildings light up.
Tonights dinner was from street stalls but we didn't go for the chicken feet.
I'll keep trying to upload the pictures.
We had a good flight over with Cathay and when we landed we discovered that one of Matts friends (Charlie) had been one of the pilots.
We are staying at the YHA hostel in Kowloon. A large apartment block has been refurbished and it is all very modern and clean. We have our own big double room and private bathroom.
Yesterday afternoon we walked through all the markets; flower, goldfish, birds, ladies and temple st night markets. I took lots of photos but not of the pet shops which had dogs and cats in glass enclosures- horrible. The main thoroughfare which runs through Kowloon was blocked by barricades at each intersection and there were a few protesters camping out. I took a photo of Martin behind a barrier showing his solidarity but the internet is very slow and I'm having trouble uploading my pictures.
Today we had a late start as we had trouble sleeping last night. That meant we hit some queues at the tram to go up the Peak. Up at the top the views were worth the wait. We then walked around central Hong Kong and had a late lunch at a street carnival. We got chatting to an American who also turned out to be a Cathay pilot!
We then came across the main area for the protesters who have barricaded a 6 lane major highway. The atmosphere was extremely calm and the police were maintaining a very low profile. Maybe because its the weekend there were many people sitting down/camping. We walked down the road which was stewn with placards, posters, tents, barricades decorated with umbrellas, makeshift shower tents, there was even a central supplies tent in case anyone wanted to stay the night and hadn't come prepared. There was a large group making origami umbrellas which are being hung on string from bridges.
We caught the iconic Star ferry back to the Kowloon waterfront and watched the sun set and the buildings light up.
Tonights dinner was from street stalls but we didn't go for the chicken feet.
I'll keep trying to upload the pictures.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)