Sunday, 28 February 2016

Tomorrow we fly on to Cambodia. Hopefully the wifi will be quicker there so I can upload the rest of the photos. Now off to the Festival again.





Martin was a bit tired this morning as he had found a website, probably illicit which was showing England's Six Nations match so stayed up late to watch.

We took a boat down the river for a 30 min trip which was a good way of travelling the distance but the outlook wasn't very inspiring - unfortunately Wat Arun is being renovated so is covered in scaffolding. We walked to Lumpini Park passing Patphong the red light district. We sat by the lake watching the fish, terrapins and quite large monitor lizards. We opted out of the long, hot walk back so took the Skytrain to the pier.

We then visited the Grand Palace and the temple of the emerald buddha. The place was teeming with noisy tour groups of Chinese and the palace security guards were blowing whistles trying to keep the crowds moving. Again we were in awe of the fabulous buildings.

I don't think I've visited a country before which holds it's royal family in such high esteem and which has royal insult laws. Everyone has calendars of the King and Queen and they are seen as the Father and Mother of the nation. The locals have said to us that the royal couple visit people around the country and try to help them. However, both King and Queen are suffering healthwise. With the country currently being under martial rule and doubt about succession to the throne there are interesting times ahead.

We got back today to some lovely pictures and news of Jess, Kath and Ryan in the campervan and sea kayaking amongst baby seals.
We had a late lunch in a thai cafe which was delicious then walked to the City Pillars Shrine. This is a beautiful building with ceramic decorations and I know my photos won't do it justice.


Walking a bit more we happened upon the infamous Khao San road - it may be a backpacker's paradise but not when you are a 54 year old backpacker and we walked as fast as possible through it.

Yesterday we visited Wat Pho - yet another temple but of course this one is superlative and we wandered around in awe of the fabulous decoration, statuary and colours shining in the sun. (Photos at the end as they are taking 5 mins each to upload.) The reclining buddha is 46m long but I was disappointed that the soles of the feet which are covered in mother of pearl and buddhist symbolism were undergoing renovation so were hidden under scaffolding.

Mad dogs and Englishmen - despite the heat we climbed 344 steps up the Golden Mount for a view over the city - the area we are concentrating our sightseeing on is bereft of skyscrapers I'm glad to say.

The flower market (which included fruit and veg) was our next stop and provided lunch on the hoof.

On the way back for a late siesta we found possibly the last few craftspeople hand making monk's alms bowls (they are now mass produced).

In the evening there was a Cultural Festival in celebration of the King's 70 years on the throne and the Queen's birthday. There was kite flying and when the sun went down the kites lit up underneath, food and craft stalls, demonstrations of traditional thai sports and games and singing and dancing on a stage. We got some food from a stall then followed this by some lovely fruit salad and a bag of fresh pineapple and I had the most delicious drink ever; runny honey mixed with freshly squeezed lemons, soda added and poured over crushed ice. We watched some of the singing and a thai lady (possibly under the influence) engaged us in a conversation which we think ended with her asking for money so we just pretended not to understand. The Festival is on again tonight so that lemon drink will be on the menu for definite.

Bangkok

On Thursday we made an arrangement with a tuk tuk driver to collect us from the hotel and take us to the airport at 8.30 on Friday and Martin negotiated the price with him. We were skeptical but he arrived good and early. The weather was a bit cool and the tuk tuk open so we pulled out our raincoats and were very thankful for them.



Monks have priority check ins and also a pleasant seating area at the gates


The flight took off 30 mins late and when we arrived at Bangkok we had fun looking for the local bus (total cost 75p!) we had researched. The traffic was horrendous and it took us nearly 2 hours to reach our hostel.


Friday, 26 February 2016

We went back to our room as we had an arrangement to skype the girls who had just met up in Wellington. It was lovely to see them together again. Jess said she was quite emotional when she and Ryan arrived at the bus station ready to meet Kath off the bus - which eventually arrived an hour and a half late. They are now heading off around the South Island for a couple of weeks in a small campervan - we wished them luck! It is strange that we are travelling in their footsteps through Asia and they in ours in NZ.

These ladies were at the celebrations for their older daughters and are from the Akha tribe - there are about 80,000 living in the hills in Northern Thailand. At the museum we learnt all about their culture and it was spooky that we had just met two members.

A trip to see the Karen long neck tribe is advertised here in Chiang Rai. The ladies add more and more rings round their necks over time and end up with abnormally elongated necks. But we discovered in the museum that the ladies have been brought in to Thailand as a tourist attraction and the founder of the museum calls it a 'human zoo' so I'm pleased we didn't go.

We had a long chat with this lady demonstrating the craft of weaving -  her family still live in the hills, using indigo, mango and other plants for natural dyes.















Chiang Rai

On Wednesday night there was a terrific thunderstorm and downpour which cooled the temperature the next day. We went out to fill up the scooter (80p) again and stopped in a cafe for brekkie. The lady couldn't understand what I was asking for and asked me to write it down and despite my scribble she got it. The cafe was empty apart from us and every time any of the staff passed our table they bowed. We have found the Thais so friendly and helpful and today we chatted to a local who told us that the government constantly puts messages out on TV and radio about how the economy needs tourism so they must help tourists and be pleasant towards them.

We wandered into town and visited the market where stalls selling fish stood next to ones selling toys next to another selling spices.


We had a look around another temple and saw a monk bang the huge gong as it was 11am which is their time to eat. The monks ate in one building whilst in another members of the local community came for a meal. I was asked twice to join in with the latter and maybe if we hadn't had such a good breakfast.......

Later as a snack for lunch we bought a bunch of small but so sweet tasting bananas for 20p and had a chat with the vendor as he was learning English.

In the afternoon we walked quite a way to find a particular museum. Just before we found it we came across celebrations at a vocational college. It was their leaving day after completing courses such as Accountancy, ICT and Food Technology. It seems that it's tradition to give the youngsters artificial flowers, cuddly toys etc and the street was lined with stalls set up just for this purpose.


Wednesday, 24 February 2016




Martin was intrigued by these chaps working on such scaffolding over the heads of the temple visitors.



We stopped by the river and there were loads of teenagers in the  beach huts and some swimming - mostly in their clothes. I presume they get Wednesday afternoons off.


Talking of schools this was the scene at 8am at a local school; milk time


More temples this afternoon then after a rest, we scootered back up to town for the night market and dinner from the market 'food court'. This included free entertainment on the stage as a brucey bonus.


On the ride back up to town we saw beautiful emerald green paddy fields and fields of pineapple;



We rode to see some temples in caves. In the first one was a monk sitting reading (he was real!) and I was in there on my own so I respectfully ignored him and he ignored me which felt quite awkward. Then another monk came in but he straight away asked where I was from and so I felt confident to talk to him and I asked where they slept - the answer was deeper in the cave.


White temple













And this gold building was the toilet block;



Chiang Rai

We both came down with head colds and didn't sleep well on Monday night so we struggled to get up at 7.30 to get breakfast then get a songthaew to the bus station. The VIP bus certainly lived up to it's name; a bottle of water and a snack provided, reclining seats and foot rests. I thought I'd have a doze....an hour later I woke up, looked out at the forest whizzing past and promptly fell asleep again for another hour. Same again but this time I managed to wake up and come to 20 minutes before we arrived.

After dumping our bags we walked into the town centre, found our bearings and visited a few more temples just for a change! Another bad night sleep last night due to noisy people so we have changed rooms and keep our fingers crossed.

Scooter hire is such good value (£5 for 24 hours and when you fill up with petrol it costs 80p!), we decided to hire one today.



We drove 14km down to the White Temple or Wat Rong Khun which is a contemporary, privately owned art exhibit in the style of a buddhist temple. You will see from the pictures how unusual it is with odd things all over the show. You still observe the niceties as with other temples so shoes off etc.

Monday, 22 February 2016

The robes seem to hold their colour despite the sun....


The last temple in Chiang Mai was our favourite, Wat Suan Dok, light and large and very peaceful


Buy one of these for £2, write a message and symbolically hold up branches of the Bothi tree.

The crowds at Doi Suthep;






Put a coin in the slot and an automated message starts


To get 'merit' you can give money in so many ways


For sick monks, rebuilding temple, stray dogs.....


Put money on the tree which corresponds to your year of birth


Pay to write a message on a cloth which is wrapped round the pagoda when roll is complete


Buy one of these and donate it to a monk

Fake cherry blossom but is the monk real or a model?




All templed out!

Guess what we have done for the last 2 days?........Looked at temples! Each one is quite different so we haven't been bored. Yesterday we walked all day again to local temples and today we hired a scooter to see the temple at Doi Suthep which is in the hills about 14 km away, as well as 2 other temples outside the city. Martin had a motorbike years ago so he enjoyed it - I rode pillion and closed my eyes a few times.

It was probably a mistake going up to Doi Suthep today as it is a public holiday - I had read that people visit temples during the evening but I reckon the whole local population decided to go during the day. It was mad. Just like the Sunday market last night which was crammed - "all part of the experience " said Martin. (We had another cheap dinner including a large punnet of delicious, locally grown strawberries.)

We 'whatsapp called' Kath this morning - she was making use of Macdonalds wifi whilst waiting for a bus to go to Rotorua. At the same time she was facebooking Jess and Ryan who were making use of the Macdonalds wifi in Taupo!

I will load up some photos but at the moment this tablet isn't playing ball.

We have just repacked our backpacks putting jumpers and raincoats at the bottom as we shouldn't need these until S Korea. Tomorrow we catch the bus for a 3 hour journey to Chiang Rai which is quite far north near the golden triangle where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos meet. We have booked the VIP bus with air conditioning - less than £5 each!


Saturday, 20 February 2016


Sepak Takraw

On Friday we discovered that there was a tournament on for the Thai youth national championships of Sepak Takraw and it was free to attend. Sepak Takraw is a version of volleyball; 3 a side but no hands/arms are used, mostly feet. To serve, one player throws the ball underhand to the server who high kicks it over the net. Only 3 touches are allowed (brilliant keepy uppy skills) before the ball has to be sent over the net and the last slamming kick is almost karate like. I hope the videos work. We watched the semis on Friday and the finals tonight - great entertainment.


Inside the temples are lots of collection boxes with all sorts of reasins to give. These are 7 based on theday of the week you were born, each having its own buddha to make the offering to.




These flowers are definitely real;