Our last long trip was Autumn 2019 when we went touring around the isles and the NC500 in Scotland. Once the pandemic hit in early 2020 we only managed our weeks in Aviemore and a few trips to Liverpool and Leeds. We decided not to travel abroad but stay within the UK for this trip. Our first thought was a month in one place but I found it hard to find a long let cottage so we are doing 4 separate weeks working our way south and timing it so we end up in Yorkshire for Christmas.
We put the house and garden to bed and went to Leeds to see Kath and the latest guide dog puppy she was fostering (Nevin). We only stayed 1 night as we decided to break the 8 hour journey up to our first stop by spending a night in Pitlochry. This meant a drive of about 5 hours to the B&B which was located walking distance from the town. We walked on a short loop around the town, across the river to see the dam and power station then into a fish and chip cafe for an early dinner. After a big cooked breakfast the next day we set off for the 3 hour journey to Shieldaig via the big Tesco in Inverness to stock up for the week.
As we neared the loch we stopped off at the same parking area where we had seen the stag last time (which we had named Dave) - it hangs around the car park and is fed by tourists and locals. There was a Tesco home delivery van driver feeding the stag a banana and some lettuce who told us the stag had been named Callum. As soon as that food ran out the stag came straight over to our open window.
Shieldaig
The cabin is on a croft at the edge of Loch Shieldaig (which is a sea loch), about 1.5 miles out from the village. We decided to return here after enjoying our 3 day stay in Shieldaig village in 2019. We had good directions from the owner and arrived early afternoon. Monica (aged 82 and still managing the croft with her 82 year old husband) showed us around the cabin which is Finnish in style with a log burner and sauna. There are 3 windows in the living area looking out over different aspects of the loch and mountains.
Apparently there are sea eagles which live on the island opposite and otters and pine martens on the croft - evidenced by their poop. I am constantly on the watch for otter and eagles but there is no chance of spotting a pine marten as they are nocturnal and it is absolutely pitch black at night. Sheep were grazing around the croft at the start of the week as they had been brought down for tupping but then they were moved on. Moored nearby on the water are fishing vessels which come and go - there is a co-operative set up to fish for langoustines sustainably.
We see the seals who lie on a skerry of rocks nearby. We have spotted buzzards, heron, long tailed tits, great tits, blue tits, a large flock of greenfinch, another of fieldfares and many other different finches who are feeding on late berries. There are cormorants and lots of gulls.
Martin has a really bad cold which started the day before we left home so that, combined with the weather (Storm Arwen hit on our first 2 days) meant that we have not done much walking. We have walked up the road in lovely sunshine and had fab views of snow covered mountains and down to the village. The cabin is really cosy and with the views and wildlife spotting, jigsaws, radio and books we have been happy to relax.
On our last full day we drove up to the north of the Applecross peninsula to Cuaig where there was a short but boggy walk to a beach. Unfortunately the tide was against us so we didn't see much beach.
On our last day we were packing up the car and could hear buzzards calling. Doug puts food out for them on fence posts each morning so we waited and saw them come down to feed.
Shieldaig to Corran
The council were resurfacing the road right at the junction out of Shieldaig with an alternative a windy road for 3 hours so we knew we had to face the lights and wait for the convoy. As we arrived the light was red and a lorry and gang of men turned up so we thought we were there for the duration. Luckily they waved us through - otherwise I think it would have been at least a 30 minute wait.
Snowy tops on the pass out of Shieldaig
On the 2.5 hour journey we stopped off several times. First was Lochcarron Weavers - amazing they have any custom as they are located 2 miles down a small road out of Lochcarron. I bought some tweed squares and offcuts. We then came across a coffee shop which also had a pottery and a fabric shop on the site. I asked a question in the fabric shop and we only managed to extricate ourselves 20 minutes later but it was interesting hearing about the patchwork. People travel from up to 2 hours away to attend classes - such a gem for crafty people in the area. The shop also stocked every single DMC thread so I got the one I was missing for the cross stitch I've brought to do.
We drove on the scenic route into Plockton and sat and ate our lunch in the car overlooking the bay.
The final stop was in Kyle to stock up in the Co-op and visit a seafood shack to buy locally sourced salmon. Next stop Corran - the directions to the cottage stated - turn off the A road, drive for 20 miles to the hamlet of Corran, drive down the track to the very last cottage. Passing through Glenelg the satnav took us down the road to the ferry which we knew was wrong so stopped a lady to ask - and she had the broadest of scouse accents! She was a probation officer in Toxteth, realised she couldn't make enough difference so came out here and built a house - wow.
In the hamlet just before Corran we had to stop to take this picture.
Corran
Our cottage is called But n Ben which means 2 roomed house or small rooms. It has since been amalgamated with the next door cottage and is long with 7 rooms along one corridor with fab views from every window. At one end is the Tea Hut the owner runs - in the summer they are inundated with walkers wanting refreshments.
It's very peaceful and quiet here - although we once had 5 american fighter jets steaming down the valley and a hercules.
We spent a morning walking the coast path and beachcombing
A lovely walk up to a lochan. As we approached the path bent to the left and disappeared from view. We heard what sounded like a very big stag roaring so approached extremely cautiously but he must have been away in the hills.
More views
It has paid off getting accommodation lochside - we saw an otter from the dining room window! Too far away for a picture but we watched him for some minutes diving in the water.
Today (Tuesday) we went out to Sandaig which is where Gavin Maxwell (Ring of Brightwater) lived with his otters. We got back in at 12 just before Storm Barra hit with gales and snow. We are on Loch Hourn which means 'hell' in Gaelic!
Corran to Port Appin
Another showery walk ending in a wind and rain swept pub. On the walk we saw a really big bird over a lochan but checking it on google images it was a buzzard not a sea eagle. On the way back we met a window cleaner sitting in his van watching out with a camera. He had seen what he was advised was a rough legged buzzard the day before and had come back with the hope of taking a photo. It may have been the one we saw but they are rare so not sure.
More beachcombing back at the cottage
Port Appin to Dunoon
Only a couple of hours drive to our fourth place and halfway was the town of Inveraray with its castle and a watch tower high up on a hill - just to be seen at the top of this picture
The castle - still occupied
We were a bit disappointed with the cabin we had booked - we knew we wouldn't have a view as we are in the woods but it was cold inside and is difficult to get warm. The saving grace the next morning was a red squirrel. We have also located the bird seed and nuts and have filled the containers so hope to see red squirrels again. As I type the finches, tits and robin are feasting themselves.
Ardentinny to Castle Carrick walk - 11 miles up Loch Long then up Loch Goil. Lovely views except for over Loch Long where there is a Trident missile facility with a police boat cruising up and down. We joked that they were tracking us as there were no other people and only 2 boats out all day. We walked through pine marten country but the only sign of them was their poo.
These trees are as old as me
When we returned to the cold lodge we had a debate about whether to leave early and texted the owner about a refund for the 4 nights we would miss. In the end we left early without a full refund but put it down to experience. We found a lovely, modern, warm Airbnb in Orton, Cumbria which broke the back of the journey to Liverpool and was in a great walking area. We did 3 great walks but on the first day when we arrived we had about an hour of daylight to make the most of the blue skies, making it down for a drink and a game in the village pub.
One walk included the limestone scars which are hard to walk over.
We passed what is supposed to be Robin Hood's grave but apparently many sites claim this fame.
On the way back into the village we saw the work being done to cut up this enormous tree which fortunately had fallen away from the buildings.
The second walk took in the Carlisle to Settle railway viaduct, kilns and an unused viaduct converted to a footpath
The final walk was to The Other Borrowdale, a fairly tough 10 miles
Orton seems a very community minded, thriving place with a shop, a pub, a school. We were opposite a Methodist chapel and nativity characters were added daily. In the All Saints church there was a Christmas tree festival where the best entry was by the shop/P.O.
The village is on the Coast to Coast path and the owner has some added extras for walkers
After collecting Martin's mum from Liverpool we joined Jess and Ryan in Lofthouse in Yorkshire for 4 nights over Christmas. We spoke on whatsapp video to Kath and Faith in Austria several times and Martin's sister in Australia. The weather was a bit dreary and cold and the access road to the cottage only accessible really by a 4x4 which Ryan had but it was a very good, chilled time with family. Snow fell on Boxing Day which was very pretty,
No comments:
Post a Comment