Punta Arenas to Puerto Varas

We started our breakfast at 7.30 and to our surprise the Korean chaps came in a few minutes later apologising for being late. I really didn't think they would get up to see us. We had another good chat and Guy was full of questions like are you glad you were born in England? He also commented on the fact that Martin had cooked the first night and I washed up then I cooked the next night and Martin washed up. He maimtained that it's still the women who do all of this in Korea.

Lots of hugs and goodbyes then we were on our way to the airport in Samuel's car. The flight was a little late leaving and was a budget airline so no free drinks nor snacks. I was in the middle seat and had a chubby young chap next to me who took up a lot of space and didn't mind sticking his elbow into me. After take off he fell asleep and gradually leant into the aisle. When the cabin crew came with the trolley they couldn't get past his head. They tried to wake him up. No response. I shook his left side they were shaking his right and saying "Senor, senor" louder and louder. There were 3 cabin crew and I think for a moment we were all thinking the worst. But no it was just a very very deep sleep and he did come round and sit up.

We got a transfer bus to Puerto Varas and it was raining with low cloud. We knew there were volcanoes but no sign today.

We had a hostel here booked earlier in the year. We then discovered that they had ended their association with booking.com but were keeping our reservation. Just before we left it transpired they had gone out of business and booking.com weren't aware. I quickly booked an equivalent alternative and booking.com stated that they would pay the difference in price. (Battle to commence on our return).

Well this new place is stunning. It's an old potato barn and when the owner Vicky bought it it was just 4 walls. She has done an amazing job. The B&B is on the top two floors, she rents offices and has her apartment on the next floor then rents out shop and cafe space downstairs.

Shared kitchen;

Vicky was married to a member of the Roth family. A Roth purchased land at the border of Chile and Argentina and his descendants have benefited from the lakes border crossing which goes through their land and is a very popular way of going between the two countries. Vicky also runs another house which is rented out, is a partner in a US baby food company and has a shop and chocolate factory!


I have been looking for horse trekking at each place but so far no go. Another guest here has two ranches about 2 hours drive away. He explained that there were day treks a few years ago but that has changed. There are more and more independent travellers who want to go camping in the mountains. This has meant that old horse trails have been turned into gravel roads with more and more vehicles. So the horse trekking has had to retreat further into the mountains and means overnight stays. Ah well.

We visited the tourist office and had bad customer service - the girl couldn't take her eyes off the computer screen and said all trekking is with guides and you can book on excursions. Every time I asked her where something is e.g. the supermarket she waved her hand and said 4 blocks and I had to keep asking her to show me on the map as I AM A VISITOR i.e. I don't know the town!

I was thrilled to see a book exchange in the B&B with some in English so, after reading many on my phone I can now hold an actual book.